Production Aids With Textile Based Materials (AQA GCSE Design & Technology): Revision Note
Exam code: 8552
The use of production aids with textiles
Production aids help textile products to be measured, marked, cut, sewn and assembled accurately
Textiles can stretch, distort and fray
Production aids help control the:
fabric direction
seam allowance
position of components like buttons
In clothing manufacture, patterns and guides are essential because many shaped fabric pieces must fit together accurately to make a working garment or product
Measuring and reference points for textiles
Measurements may be taken using a flexible tape measure because fabrics and body shapes are not always flat or straight
The selvedge is a finished edge of woven fabric
It can be used as a reference for the grain line
Pattern pieces include:
grain-line arrows
notches
balance marks
darts
fold lines
button positions
These are the reference points that show how pieces align during assembly
Tailor's chalk, washable pens or tailor's tacks can mark fabric without leaving a permanent visible line
A seam allowance is added outside the finished size so fabric pieces can be joined without making the product too small
Accurate reference points are important because errors can cause seams, patterns, zips or pockets to be misaligned
Worked Example
What is the purpose of a seam allowance on a textile pattern?
[1 mark]
Answer
It provides extra fabric outside the finished line so the pieces can be sewn together at the correct final size. [1]
Templates and patterns for textiles
A textile pattern is a full-size shape used to cut one or more fabric components
They are typically made from paper, card or digital pattern-cutting data
Pattern pieces are pinned or weighted onto the fabric before cutting
Cutting must follow the indicated grain line and any instruction to place an edge on the fold
Patterns contain symbols and reference points such as:
notches
darts
buttonholes
centre lines
seam allowances
A master pattern can be graded to create different sizes while keeping the same proportions and design features
Templates may be used for:
repeated decorative shapes
appliqué pieces
quilt blocks
pocket positions
embroidery layouts
Computer-controlled fabric cutters can use digital patterns to nest pieces closely, reducing waste
Worked Example
Explain why pattern pieces must be aligned with the grain line of woven fabric.
[2 marks]
Answer
Correct grain alignment controls how the fabric hangs, stretches and keeps its shape. [1] Poor alignment can cause the finished product to twist or distort. [1]
Jigs for textiles
Textile jigs are sometimes called guides because they help position flexible material
A seam guide on a sewing machine keeps the fabric edge a fixed distance from the needle, producing a consistent seam allowance
A hemming or binding folder turns the fabric edge by a set amount immediately before it passes under the sewing-machine needle
An embroidery hoop or frame is typically made from wood, and forms a shape within which it can hold fabric flat and under tension while stitching is completed by hand or machine
A positioning jig can locate pockets, labels, fasteners, zips or decorative components in the same place on every product
Jigs improve repeatability but must not stretch, snag or permanently mark the fabric
Worked Example
Give one example of a textile jig and explain its benefit.
[2 marks]
Answer
A sewing-machine seam guide keeps the fabric edge a fixed distance from the needle, [1] so the seam allowance remains consistent and the finished pieces fit together accurately.[1]
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